It's a cast of thousands, literally. Two thousand, to be exact. They've been hard at work for more than a year, building and refining sets, prepping the theatre, fine-tuning their instruments, designing and sewing costumes, studying and rehearsing. None have been paid for their efforts, but that doesn't seem to faze them one bit.
Their reward?
To play a part in the 2010 production of the Oberammergau Passion Play.
To be given a lead role in the play is a huge honour. This season, one of those chosen to play Jesus (there are two) is Frederik Mayet, whose day job is to head up publicity for the Passion Play. Mary Magdalene is a flight attendant. And, in an unintentionally ironic twist, one of those tapped for the role of Judas, Carsten Luck, is the head carpenter.
Even if they are not directly part of the production, the other half of the townspeople prepare for the rush of tourists who flock to the tiny village 90 kilometres southwest of Munich by readying the restaurants, shops and businesses catering to crowds throughout the summer and into the fall.
Every 10 years, virtually everyone in Oberammergau is involved in staging one of the biggest spectacles in religious theatre in the world. There is one exception: it's possible the only person in town who doesn't get involved is the barber - male performers must grow out their beards and hair, since the production forbids the use of artificial hair.
For five months, the amateur actors will take to the stage of a specially designed, purpose-built venue and perform their interpretation of the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus of Nazareth. The population of Oberammergau will double in size on performance days, and by the end of the run, half a million people will have witnessed the once-in-a-decade event.
Passion Plays are performed around the world (including one in Drumheller, staged every summer by the Rosebud Theatre). But none have the reputation nor the longevity of the Oberammergau productions, which have been performed faithfully for almost four centuries. The play's beginnings in the town tucked into the foothills of the Bavarian Alps can be traced back to a time of turmoil, poverty, disease and death.
The Passion Play runs approximately five hours and is divided into two acts to allow visitors to Oberammergau the opportunity to stretch their legs and to see a bit of the village. Performances begin in the afternoon, and the three-hour intermission allows time for a meal in one of the many restaurants in central Oberammergau and a stroll in the coolness of the early evening before the performance concludes.
Oberammergau is a village also known for its woodcarvers; today there are more than 1,400 men and women registered in the profession who are happy to demonstrate their skills and chat with visitors. There's ample opportunity to purchase handmade originals ranging from religious icons to toys. If you're in the market for lederhosen or a dirndl -- or a beer stein or two -- you won't be disappointed.
IF YOU GO
- Munich is the jumping off point for a trip to Oberammergau and the Bavarian Alps. Typical round trip fares in summer begin at $1,000 Cdn, plus taxes and fees; prices normally drop in early September.
- The Oberammergau Passion Play runs every day, except Mondays and Wednesdays, from now until Oct. 3. Tickets range from $65 to $215 (all prices in Canadian) per person and can be purchased individually or in packages, including accommodation and transportation.
For tickets and information on the 2010 Passion Play: passionplay-oberammergau.com.
WHERE TO STAY
Oberammergau has many small hotels and inns:
- Hotel Alte Post has been greeting guests since 1612, and is located a few minutes' walk from the Passion Play Theatre. Rates for double occupancy range from $108 to $140; breakfast buffet is included. www.ogau.de
- A little removed from the crowds, but still within walking distance of the town centre, is the Parkhotel Sonnenhof. Rates range from $117 to $221. Buffet breakfast is $17 extra. www.parkhotelleriesonnenhof.de.
WHERE TO DINE
- There are dozens of restaurants, both in hotels and on their own, throughout the village.
All will fill during the Passion Play intermission, but tables turn over quickly. Expect to pay an average of $20 for a full meal with soft drinks, beer, or wine. You might also consider dining "al fresco." Pick up some fresh bread and local meats and cheeses to enjoy in a local park or on the shores of the nearby Ammer River.
- The official site: www.passionplay-oberammergau.com.