So . . . the chances are pretty good you ran out and grabbed yourself some Sockeye to enjoy this Labour Day weekend.

One last taste-filled hurrah for summer?

The question is: what to drink with your prized catch?

The good news about Sockeye (aside from the fact that -- if you don't overcook it -- it's delicious) is that this salmon is also very accepting of a wide range of wine styles.

Think along these lines, though, and you won't go too far wrong.

Whether white or red, forget about anything seriously oaked. It really just doesn't make sense to be drinking a toothpick Chard with a nice piece of fish. (In this case, Gray Monk's unwooded Chard would be a good thought.) Moreover, whatever anyone says about red wine with fish, stay away from anything obviously tannic and herbal.

If you are going to stick with white, consider something fairly dry, rather than off dry, with decent structure, and also some acidity to contrast with the higher fat content in the fish.

Also, give some thought as to how you're going to prepare the fish and what it will be served with.

For a simple lemon and dill dressing, consider staying fairly light, such as a Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc if you like to use plenty of herbs.

Pinot Gris works well with a fresh dill and yoghurt dressing, while if citrus is more dominant you might want to go with the Sauv. Blanc.

If you like to barbecue with a sweeter glaze, a Riesling is a good choice to cut through the sweetness, although our advice -- especially if the fish is super fresh -- is to let the flavour of the Sockeye speak for itself.

Another all too often overlooked white is B.C. Pinot Blanc -- which was actually the wine that launched our obsession with food and wine pairing, way back in the '90s. There was a reason organisers of the inaugural Salmon and Pinot Blanc "Marriage made in B.C." chose that variety: first of all, there used to be no shortage of Pinot Blanc before much of it was ripped out to make way for our (fleeting) affair with Chardonnay. But, more to the point, its quiet richness can work very well, without overpowering the fish -- especially if you throw in a little fruit salsa.

In the spirit of Sockeye and Labour Day weekend, our picks are all from B.C. And all under $20.

- CedarCreek Estate Pinot Noir '07

Some smoky hints on the nose with lifted cherry and spice, followed by a medium bodied, elegant and rounded palate with just the right touch of acidity to carry the weight of the fish. BCLS $26.99

- Hester Creek Pinot Blanc '08

Lifted apple and pear notes, followed by good fruit intensity on the textured palate with slight mineral and citrus overtones before a lingering, refreshing end. Textbook B.C. Pinot Blanc. BCLS $15.99.

- Sandhill Pinot Gris '08

Grown on the King Family Estate Vineyards in the central Okanagan Valley, this is arguably the definitive B.C. Pinot Gris. Well balanced fruit and acidity for backbone with complex apple, pear and citrus notes. BCLS $17.99.

- Township 7 Sauvignon Blanc VQA '08

A mouth filling Sauv. Blanc with a generous palate of gently tropical and kiwi notes before a clean and lengthy end. Think something rich. Like Sockeye. VQA and PWS $18.99.